ANNIE’S SPRING ROSÉ & PASTA PAIRINGS
Rosé’s ubiquity is one of the early signs of spring. Soon after the first daffodils pop their yellow heads from the warming earth, peach and pomegranate-colored bottles begin lining shelves and tables everywhere. While every wine country produces their own variety of rosé, I tend to lean towards Italian rosatos – each sip transports me to the sun-drenched, sandy beaches of the Mediterranean. Here are seven Italian rosés to look out for this season – and seven delicious pastas to pair them with.
Girolamo Russo Etna Rosato
The vibrant island of Sicily is perhaps defined by the iconic, volcanic slopes of Mount Etna when it comes to a winemaker’s (and wine lover’s) perspective. Still an active volcano, Mount Etna is home to wineries that take advantage of the nutrient-rich soil and high altitudes – factors that make it very hospitable to growing grapes.
A notable producer on the island is Girolamo Russo. Girolamo’s son Giuseppe had been studying to be a pianist when his father suddenly passed away in 2005, leading him to return home to Mount Etna and take over the family vineyards. His organically-farmed, nearly century-old vines along the windswept Northern slopes of Mount Etna are the source of the Nerello Mascalese grapes used to produce Girolamo Russo’s Etna Rosato. It’s dry, light, and lush with enticing layers of cherry, strawberry, and raspberry – underscored by hints of white pepper and laced with acidity.
It’s the perfect accompaniment to briny seafood pastas like spaghetti ai ricci and spaghetti alla bottarga, which feature star turns from sea urchin and salt-cured fish roe, respectively. Or if you’re an eggplant fanatic like me, you could pair the rosato with pasta alla norma: a classic Sicilian dish where the purple plants are cubed, fried, and showcased alongside tomato sauce, short pasta, and a kiss of ricotta salata.
‘A Vita Rosato
Husband and wife duo Francesco and Laura de Franco specialize in small-batch masterpieces. Their winery, ‘A Vita, is situated in Calabria – the region famously known as the ‘toe’ of the Italian boot. It’s also an homage to old-world winemaking: no fertilizer is used on the grapes (it’s certified organic) and no technology is used in the cellar (wines are fermented and refined naturally).
‘A Vita Rosato is a juicy rosé with a delicate rusticity and core notes of sour cherry and watermelon. Perhaps the bottle’s most distinctive feature is its trademark salty, mineral tang, which derives from the winery’s location in between the sea and mountains. Despite being produced with Gaglioppo grapes – the most-frequently planted vine in the Calabria region – this rosato decidedly stands out from the pack.
As reflected in its robust hibiscus color, the wine has a fair amount of body and structure – making it the ultimate earthy partner to candele con ‘nduja. A signature Calabrian dish consisting of al-dente tubes of pasta tossed in a succulent sauce of tomato and nduja (a spicy, spreadable pork salami with chili pepper), the dish stands up perfectly to the intense, distinctive rosé.
I Vigneri di Salvo Foti Vinudilice Rosato
I had an unforgettable visit to I Vigneri winery in Mount Etna this past October. The Foti family exudes a passion and energy that’s matched in their wines. Fresh, vibrant, and steeped in Sicily's signature salt and smoke, their minimal intervention and terroir-driven approach are apparent in every sip.
I Vigneri’s Vinudilice Rosato is made from a blend of grapes including Grenache, Minella and Grecanico, sourced from the highest vineyard in all of Etna (and perhaps Italy, too). With the help of a mule, harvest is done by hand, and the transfer and bottling are carried out according to the phases of the moon.
Acidity and driving minerality are met with a bouquet of aromatic strawberry, pomegranate, and pink pepper, as well as a balsamic freshness. I love pairing this rosato with a pasta equally as delicate, like fusilli with cherry tomato and burrata – long strands of wavy, al dente pasta soak up the sweet tomato juice and creaminess from the cheese.
Tiberio Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo
Cristina Tiberio is one of my all-time favorite winemakers in Abruzzo, producing wine for her family business that has grown from humble beginnings to a 30-hectare estate and facility. Founded by her father in 2000, Cristina took Tiberio’s reins eight years later – working tirelessly to transform Abruzzo into a notable wine region and becoming a pioneering female vigneron in the process. Tiberio produces authentic, terroir-driven wines that extol the potential of Montepulciano, Pecorino and Trebbiano grapes. Well-structured and well-balanced with complexity and depth, they are wines ripe for ushering in a change of seasons.
Tiberio’s Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo is a deep, dark rosato, with significantly more structure and juicy fruit than the typical rosé. Notes of crunchy cherries, sweet strawberries, rose petals, orange peel, and savory minerals harmonize beautifully along the palate. Made from the free-run juice of Montepulciano grapes, this is the type of rosé that has enough structure to stand up to a richer dish like pasta alla carbonara – Pecorino cheese, eggs and guanciale come together to form the luscious, creamy base of this Roman classic. The richness of the sauce stands up well to the delicately-structured tannins of the Cerasuolo, and the wine’s spice notes complement the dish’s peppery punch.
Cantine San Marzano Tramari Rosé di Primitivo
I’ve had the opportunity to spend the last two summers traveling to Puglia, the ‘handsome heel’ of the Italian boot. On my most recent trip, I visited Cantine San Marzano, a cooperative winery founded in the early 1960s. There are now roughly 1,200 growers who are part of the cooperative, and the winery has expanded to become one of the most well-known and respected in Puglia.
The San Marzano Tramari Rosé di Primitivo translates to “between the seas” – so it’s apropos that the wine’s bracing saline minerals evoke the shimmering, sun-kissed Puglian coast. Made up of 100% Primitivo, a notoriously powerful grape, this wine is surprisingly light and ethereal – I find it reminiscent of the sun as it sets against the Mediterranean Sea. With a light blush tint to it, the rosato is elegantly floral and tastes of fresh cherries and raspberries.
If you’re feeling edgy, pair the bottle with a plate of spaghetti all'assassina – Puglia’s “killer spaghetti.” This dish features a caramelized and crunchy spaghetti with a spicy sauce of garlic, olive oil, chili flakes and tomato. When served beneath a spoonful of stracciatella, this killer spaghetti is downright heavenly.
Tormaresca Furia di Calafuria
It’s safe to say everything Antinori touches turns to (rose) gold, with Tormaresca’s Furia di Califuria exemplifying this maxim. The tasty rosato from Puglia is made from a blend of Negroamaro, Syrah and Cabernet Franc grapes, which are grown in clay and limestone soils before being hand-picked to ensure the highest quality. Bursts of fresh peach, grapefruit, strawberry and lingering notes of jasmine emanate from the glass.
Salento borders the Adriatic coast, which means there’s an energetic acidity and salinity in the wine – making it a perfect match for orecchiette with anchovy and cime di rapa. “Little ears” of pasta are combined with the salty filets of anchovy (which dissolve in the sauce), slightly-bitter broccoli rabe, as well as a fragrant bouquet of olive oil, garlic and chili pepper. It’s a traditional Puglian recipe that’s so simple yet so delicious.
Abbazia San Giorgio Cloé Rosato
Battista Belvisi launched his winery, Abbazia San Giorgio, less than a decade ago – but has already gained a cult following amongst oenophiles. Belvisi grew up making Passito on the tiny, volcanic island of Pantelleria with his father and grandfather before leaving to attend college in Palermo to study agriculture. Many people who have the opportunity to leave the island don’t return, but Belvisi’s father persuaded him to come back and put his education to good use in his homeland. He now produces wines that showcase native Sicilian varieties like Nerello Mascalese, Cattarato, as well as Zibibbo.
Abbazia San Giorgio Cloé Rosato is made from 95 percent Nerello Mascalese and 5 percent Zibibbo. The former a grape typically found along Mount Etna’s slopes in Northern Sicily, a region he would frequent often. After Belvisi discovered that the territory had many similarities to his hometown of Pantelleria, such as volcanic soil and stone walls that protect local vineyards, he decided to experiment with a small plot of land. The result could be considered a “vin de soif” version of Etna Rosato that tastes like summer in a bottle – a sunny mix of crushed strawberries, blood oranges, watermelon, and sea salt.
The wine works well with dishes both savory and sweet, so a suitable pasta pairing would be spaghetti with strawberry and tomato – an unforgettable recipe I first tried at the popular Washington, D.C. restaurant Rose’s Luxury before re-creating it in my home kitchen. San Marzano tomatoes and in-season strawberries are stewed together to form a delectable, aromatic sauce, seasoned with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, thin shards of red onion, and a healthy dose of red chili flakes. The spaghetti dish is topped off with a generous dollop of creamy ricotta and a sprinkle of fresh basil before serving.
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